March 15, 2016

FrictionLabs: It's a big lie?

FrictionLabs chalk comments
https://frictionlabs.com/products/high-performance-chalk?variant=6929287171

I haven't tried it before so i don't know if performs better, maybe it does.

But I went through the website and it's all lies.
It is all about marketing.


"All chalk brands claim to be 100% Magnesium Carbonate. When you run the tests though, the truth is that they all have significant amounts of impurities, drying agents, heavy metals, and other fillers. We’re the first to admit that our chalk isn’t 100% pure; it would be extremely expensive and impractical to make. "

We’re the first to admit that our chalk isn’t 100% pure; it would be extremely expensive and impractical to make. But our chalk is by far the purest out there, meaning it will last longer, dry your hands better, and keep your lungs and skin healthier than anything else.

Here is a link to "cheap" high purity Magnesium Carbonate, it's used as food supplement and is very pure. So pure that you can eat it, no problem.

http://www.bulksupplements.com/magnesium-carbonate.html?gclid=COfo2JPJw8sCFYiVfgodBHENBg

If you buy 1 kg (~32oz), each oz is ~$0.62.
The cheapest price on FrictionLabs is $2.5 per oz if you buy 10 oz.


Breathe easy knowing our chalk has no harmful drying agents or impurities. Save your lungs.

Magnesium Carbonate itself is a drying agent. The above sentence suggests that other brand of chalk has harmful drying agents, which i do not agree. Since the main ingredient is already a drying agent, why would other brand put in other drying agent? If i am wrong, show me the evidence.

The highest purity chalk keeps your hands drier, longer. Chalk up less. Get better grip.

Clean chalk protects your skin from overdrying and cracking. Go harder. Go longer. Go more.

Read the above two sentences carefully, they actually contradict each other.
How can that chalk keeps your hands dryer while protects your skin from overdrawing? It doesn't take a PhD to understand that it just doesn't sound right.

A team of world-class geologists and chemists recently conducted independent tests on 5 of the most common chalks for rock climbing. The results were clear

seems like another lie. The website only show one report, written by one PhD. Not even a team. And I personally doubt the credibility of the report. Assuming the data is true, the report still makes a big mistake. For XRF analysis, you shouldn't use peak height (or area integral under certain energy range) to represent real atomic ratio.

Also, just trust the report for a minute, in their report, Table 1, if you plot Mg: Ca peak height,
The ratio is different from what they show you on their own website (see below).


Chalks tested include Bison Ball, Metolius Super Chalk, Evolv, and Metolius Block

Their plot on the website suggest that two brands of chalk has 10 time more Calcium carbonate than magnesium carbonate, which is likely not true.


That brand of chalk is supported by a lot of famous climbers. They have Chris Sharma's photo there too. I have never used it before. But according to what i see from their website:

It's a big lie!!!






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